BY JOANA KUZNETSOVA
Who is Apo Whang-Od?
Apo Whang-Od is a legendary tattoo artist from the remote village of Buscalan in Kalinga. A province in the northern Philippines. She was born in 1917 and is known as the last living mambabatok (practitioner of batek). Whang-Od learned the craft from her father at the age of 16 and has been tattooing ever since. Despite her age, she continues to tattoo visitors from around the world. Making her one of the most respected figures in the Philippines.
Over the years, she has received recognition for her role in preserving this ancient art form. In 2018, she was named a National Living Treasure by the Philippine government. A recognition that honors individuals who have made exceptional contributions to the preservation of Filipino culture. In April 2023, Apo Whang-Od was featured on Vogue’s cover at 106 years old. Becoming the oldest person ever to grace its front page.
But perhaps her greatest legacy lies in her continued work to teach younger generations about the art of tattooing. Her signature three dots represent herself and her two grandnieces, Grace Palicas and Elyang Wigan. Whang-Od’s grandnieces and others have taken up the craft, ensuring that the tradition will continue long after Whang-Od’s time.
How to Get a Tattoo from Apo Whang-Od
If you’ve decided you want to receive a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od, it’s important to know that this experience requires some planning, respect for tradition, and a genuine appreciation for the cultural significance of the tattoos. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you get a tattoo from the legendary Apo Whang-Od:
1. Make the Journey to Buscalan
Location: Buscalan, a remote village in the Kalinga province of northern Luzon, offers breathtaking views and steep, rugged terrain. Getting there can be a bit challenging, but it’s part of the adventure.
Before hitting the road, it’s essential to plan ahead. The drive from Manila to Buscalan is a long one, taking around 10 to 12 hours depending on traffic, road conditions, and how often you stop for breaks.
How to Get There:
- Departure from Manila: Aim to leave early in the morning to avoid Manila’s traffic and make the most of daylight hours. It’s ideal to leave between 3:00 AM and 4:00 AM.
- Hiking: Once you reach Buscalan’s base, you’ll need to hike up to the village. The hike can take about 30 minutes to an hour, depending on your pace, and the trail can be steep.
Tip: It’s wise to travel with a guide or join a group, as the roads can be tricky, and local guides will help with directions and transportation. We hired a driver to get us to Buscalan, making our trip stress free.
Driver’s Contact Information: Louie Malabuyoc| Cell: +639663262009
2. Know the Tattoo Process
Apo Whang-Od uses the traditional batek method, performing it entirely by hand. Here’s what you can expect from the tattooing process:
- The Tools: Apo Whang-Od uses a bamboo stick with a citrus thorn from a pomelo tree, (they believe that the citrus scent of it wards malevolent spirits) tied to the end, which she dips into ink (often made from charcoal). The tattoo is created by tapping the needle into the skin with a small stick, a technique that can be quite painful but is deeply meaningful in the Kalinga culture.
- The Design: The tattoos are typically geometric and nature-inspired, often featuring motifs that represent protection, bravery, and strength.
3. Wait for Your Turn
Getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od isn’t a simple walk-in appointment. She is an elderly woman, and due to her age, she can only tattoo a limited number of people per day. Visitors often have to wait their turn, so patience is key.
While there’s no formal reservation system, the community in Buscalan typically helps organize the process. Local guides or relatives of Apo Whang-Od may facilitate the waiting list, but it’s a good idea to be flexible with your schedule.
4. Accommodations
Sometimes you might need to stay overnight due to the wait list. Buscalan is a small, rural village, so accommodations are relatively basic. However, the sense of community and the opportunity to experience local culture up close make staying in the area a unique and memorable part of your tattoo journey.
Homestays
The most common type of accommodation in Buscalan is the homestay, where you’ll stay with local families who offer rooms in their homes. These homestays are simple but provide an authentic cultural experience. You’ll be able to interact with locals, try traditional food, and get to know the Kalinga people on a deeper level.
- Cost: Prices vary, but expect to pay between ₱300 to ₱500 per night (roughly $5 to $10 USD). This includes meals, which are often basic but delicious, such as rice, vegetables, and local meats.
- Amenities: Most homestays provide basic amenities like bedding, shared bathrooms, and a simple, quiet atmosphere. Wi-Fi and electricity may be limited, so be prepared to disconnect and enjoy the surrounding nature.
5. Gifts for Apo Whang-Od and the Village
Apo Whang-Od and her community are known for their hospitality, and it’s customary to bring gifts when visiting Buscalan as a sign of respect and appreciation. While it’s not mandatory, bringing small tokens for Whang-Od and the villagers can be a meaningful way to show your gratitude for the tattoo experience and for allowing you to be part of their culture.
- Food and Supplies: In the remote area of Buscalan, access to certain goods can be limited, so it’s a kind gesture to bring food like honey, tea, and snacks or other practical items like soap and toothpaste.
- Cash Donations: This helps support Apo Whang-Od, her family, and the village. The amount is up to you, but typically, people leave between ₱1,000 to ₱2,000 ($20 to $40 USD) as a donation for the tattoo.
- Personal Gifts: Apo Whang-Od may also appreciate small, personal gifts such as items from your country.
6. Aftercare Tips for Your Tattoo
Getting tattooed by Apo Whang-Od is a memorable and meaningful experience, but proper aftercare is crucial to ensure that your tattoo heals well. Hand-tapped tattoos require extra attention due to the traditional technique, which can cause a slightly different healing process compared to machine tattoos.
The Initial Healing Phase (First Week)
In the first few days after getting your tattoo, you’ll experience some redness, bruising, swelling, and tenderness in the tattooed area. This is normal and part of the healing process.
- Avoid Scratching: It’s important not to scratch or pick at the tattoo, as this can lead to infection and disrupt the healing.
- Clean Gently: Wash the tattoo with mild, non-scented soap and water. Gently pat the area dry with a clean towel. Avoid using harsh chemicals or alcohol-based products on the tattoo.
- Avoid Water Submersion: Don’t submerge your tattoo in water (e.g., pools, rivers, or hot tubs) during the healing period. You can shower, but try to avoid long exposures to water.
The Scabbing Phase (Second Week)
As your tattoo heals, you’ll notice scabs forming on the surface. This is normal as the skin is healing. Don’t worry if the tattoo appears slightly raised or flaky.
- Moisturize: Apply a thin layer of a gentle, non-scented moisturizer or ointment to keep the tattoo hydrated. I used Aquaphor to heal my tattoo.
- Avoid Tight Clothing: Don’t wear tight or abrasive clothing over the tattooed area, as it can rub against the skin and irritate the tattoo.
Full Healing (1 Month or Longer)
The full healing process may take 3 weeks or longer, depending on the size of the tattoo and how well you take care of it. Over time, the scabs will fall off, and the tattoo will begin to fade into its final design.
- Sun Protection: Once the tattoo has healed, it’s important to protect it from direct sunlight to avoid fading. Apply sunscreen or keep the area covered when exposed to the sun.
- Long-Term Care: After the tattoo heals, regularly moisturize the area and avoid scratching or irritating the skin.
Final Thoughts
Getting tattooed by Apo Whang-Od is an incredible journey. While it may require a bit of effort to reach Buscalan, the memories you’ll create and the tattoo you’ll carry with you will be well worth the adventure.
Safe travels, and may your tattoo journey be filled with stories and strength!
